How to check electrical tile multimeter. Professional repair of electric stoves at home
- Our household life is filled with all the new electrical appliances, which greatly facilitate our pastime...
- In the power switches (as before - bag packs) the breakdowns are the same, namely, the “charring” of...
- Remove the hob from the countertop and move it to an open, level place where it will be easy to repair.
- This is done with a multimeter. It must be switched to the resistance measurement mode (ohmmeter mode)....
In most cases, a person with straight arms can perform repair of the electric stove independently and at home. To do this, it is enough to get acquainted with the information in this section and apply a standardized algorithm for troubleshooting electrical stoves described in detail below. Since in modern electric cookers all the faults are typical, therefore the manufacturer and the number of burners practically do not play a role.
First of all, it is necessary to check with a multimeter the presence of the mains supply voltage in the outlet (read the voltage here :)
If it is present, then you should check the functionality of the plug and power cord. To do this, the power plug will have to disassemble, unscrewing the two screws.
If no faults are detected with the power supply, the electric cooker will have to partially disassemble and check the voltage input to the contact terminals of the heaters.
Ring the heaters in each burner in order to identify a burned out spiral or breakdown on the body.
It will make sure that the thermostat and temperature sensors as well as the power regulators are working.
First you need to look at the control light, if it glows then problems with the absence of voltage can be eliminated in the first approximation, but sometimes there are times when the indicator has long burnt out in electric plates with mechanical regulators of burner power, and the stove stopped working much later. At this stage, without starting disassembly, you can detect a problem in the switches, including various burners and switching their modes.
It is unlikely that all burners burn out immediately. Therefore, in the absence of any response to the manipulations, it is highly likely that the voltage should not be applied to the control components.
Virtually any repair of electric stoves, begins with their disassembly.
Since electric stoves and hobs come in a great variety of different sizes, shapes and structures, there is no possibility to describe their disassembly averaged, so before repairing it is necessary to deal with this issue yourself by reading the service documentation or guide that we suggest you download from the links below:
The easiest way is to check the availability of voltage directly at the terminals of the heating rings. If the voltage is present, but the heating element does not heat, then it is necessary to turn off the electric stove and disconnect the terminals from the TEN, ring them, and then the heating element itself.
If a burnout or breakdown on the case is detected, the damaged heater or the helix must be replaced.
If the dialing of the heaters did not reveal any problems, then the cause of the breakdown is most likely in the electronic control unit or if the model is older in the power switch.
Suppose that the heater has two spirals: C1 and C2. For their switching, a three-position three-pole switch can be used: K1, K2, K3.
When the K3 contact is turned on, both spirals are connected in series and will work in half of their limiting powers. When K2 is turned on, the first helix C1 will heat to full capacity. The maximum of heating will be at parallel operation of contacts K1 and K2 - both spirals will be connected in parallel relative to each other. To repair such a switch at home, it can be disassembled and cleaned with fine emery paper. It would not be superfluous to check the force of the tension of the pressure springs and the tightness of the contacts. Cleaning the surfaces, tightening the springs and bending the contacts will help to solve the problem with your own hands in 90% of cases.
The switching function in electric cookers with an electronic control unit is performed by electromagnetic or electronic relays. To switch between modes with three spirals, four relays will be required, and the switch-on circuit will also become more complicated.
On the connection diagram of the burner with four contacts of the story in the video manual for repair of electric stove below:
The operation of electromagnetic relays is indirectly confirmed by clicking them when switching, and if you do not hear this, you should ring its coil with a multimeter and measure the presence of a control signal.
This is well explained in the video repair instructions below:
Pull out the hob from the countertop
Put it face down. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the protective cover. After the dismounting of the working surface, the connectors and the electric control board are visible. Relays are on the reverse side.
Inspect the control board and burners for visual damage and burnout. If they are not there, then ring the spiral of the idle burner. If they are working, ring the wires from the helix to the relay and the connectors on the contacts.
DIY repair of electric stoves
Look at which relay on the control board the burner wires go to. Check the relay - by applying a voltage of 12V from its external power supply to its winding. If the relay is working, then its contacts close and show resistance close to zero. Otherwise, replace the relay with a similar one.
In order not to make an urgent repair of the electric stove, you need to properly connect it. To connect it, a three-core copper cable with a cross section of 4 mm 2 must be routed from the apartment shield and connected through a 32 Ampere circuit breaker. In apartments with no gas supply, the cable must be laid before putting the house into operation and connected to an electrical outlet of domestic production of the RS-32 brand. In other cases, you will have to lay a separate copper three-core cable with a cross section of 6 mm 2 to connect to the 220-volt network.
Our household life is filled with all the new electrical appliances, which greatly facilitate our pastime in the kitchen and make cooking much more comfortable than before. But any electronics has one major drawback - it fails without warning.
As in the previous articles on which you can find in the rubric of this site, now we will consider the main appliance of our kitchen - the electric stove .
So, if the kitchen stove failed, you can take some steps to restore it.
Independent repair of a modern electric stove on glass-ceramic is possible for everyone. In electric stoves, all faults are the same, so the manufacturer, in fact, does not matter. A common failure is a malfunction of one of the hotplates : it stops heating altogether or starts to act up. The most possible causes of induction failure or glass ceramic plates - the burnout of the spiral, the failure of the electronics or, most often, the control relays and power switches.
In the power switches (as before - bag packs) the breakdowns are the same, namely, the “charring” of the contacts or the melting of their plastic case. Switches are different in shape, but the principle of operation and assembly is almost the same.
During operation, the switches are constantly heated, and because of this, their plastic case is melted or deformed, filling copper contacts with its plastic mass. It also happens that the copper contacts, from the spark that constantly appears in them, turn black (charred) and stop interacting with each other. It is quite simple to get rid of blackness - you need to take sandpaper and clean them. The situation is more complicated with a plastic case. If the body has not lost its shape and only a little drip, then this can be eliminated by cleaning it of the molten mass with a knife or screwdriver (also after that you need to clean the contacts with emery paper). If the case is strongly deformed and contacts or other parts fall away from it, then, best of all, replace this switch with a new one. Pre-record the location of the wires suitable for it, and even better capture it in the photo, so as not to get confused when installing another element. When going to the store or service center for the purchase of a new switch, do not forget to take the old one with you so that there is something to compare with.
A relay failure occurs as follows: when the plate is switched on and off repeatedly, the switching contacts burn out. This can be compared to conventional switch : when closing and opening the contacts between them, a spark jumps, as is the case with the power switches described above. In this case it is necessary to repair the electric stove in the following order:
Remove the hob from the countertop and move it to an open, level place where it will be easy to repair.
Install the hob face down. Use a screwdriver to unscrew the protective cover. After removing the work surface, you will see the connectors and the control board of the plate. The relays are located on the back of the control board.
Inspect the board and burners for obvious damage. If they were not found, then you need to ring the spiral of the idle burner.
This is done with a multimeter. It must be switched to the resistance measurement mode (ohmmeter mode). After the successful ringing of the helix, it is necessary to check the wires from the helix to the relay and the connectors on the contacts for signs of burning.
Look at which relay on the control board the burner wires go to. It is necessary to check whether it works. The safe test option is to artificially apply 12V to the coil from the power supply. After applying voltage to the coil, the switching contacts must close and output a resistance of about 0 ohms (close to it). If a large resistance has been shown (hundreds or thousands of ohms), then the relay is defective.
The relay can be repaired independently, but, as practice shows, it will work for a short time. The reason is simple: for the sake of economy, the contact group on the relay in modern plates is made of steel with copper coating. Sooner or later, the cleaned contacts will burn again. And in the old Soviet plates contacts were made of pure copper. Therefore, you need to purchase new relays, but simply pick the right ones for the parameters will not work. It is necessary to find just such a detail, because its body usually counts on certain dimensions, and it has its own arrangement of legs. In this case, the same advice applies when buying switches: do not forget to take the old relay with you for comparison.
Like other electrical appliances, require care and maintenance, and sometimes repair. Today, there are many special services for the repair of electric stoves, but their services can cost you a lot of money.
I will try to give you a few useful tips to repair household electric stoves with their own hands , without the help of professional experts.
I will give a few typical troubles of a household electric stove and the possibilities for their elimination.
1. The "Network" indicator light is off. Power cord and plug.
One of the most common causes of electric breakdowns is the refraction of the electric cord at the place of its connection with the plug or the breaking of the contacts in the plug.
Disassemble the power plug. If the plug cannot be repaired (the case burned, the contacts are badly damaged), then replace it with a new one. If a wire break is found, cut the wires (preferably all) near the entrance to the plug, strip them again and screw them to the contacts on the plug. If wire breakage is not visible, then the entire electrical cord must be checked for integrity by means of an electromultiplier or a multimeter. Splicing the electric cord is not desirable, it is better to replace it with a whole new one.
2. Water entering electrical contacts . Short circuit.
When water enters the electrical contacts almost always occurs. short circuit that leads to the failure of the electric stove. The most common causes of water getting on the contacts is careless washing of the stove and boiling water in the pot. In this case, there is a short circuit of current-carrying parts - most often between the body of the electric stove and the heating element.
If you do not visually find the place of the circuit, then you should use a multimeter (“dial” mode) or an electronic trigger. Set all switches on the electric cooker to the "off" position and ring each section of the electric circuit separately. It is called like this: one electric probe or multimeter on the body of the plate, and the other on the open contact of the electrical circuit. If the multimeter "squealed" (buzzer), and the shooter deviated from the electric gun, then you are on the circuit where the circuit occurred. Look, it is somewhere nearby.
Eliminates short circuit by replacing a section of wire or replacing burnt contacts.
3. The indicator light on the electric stove glows, and the comfort does not heat up.
A) burned out spiral in comfort;
B) the wire is disconnected from the contacts or the wire is broken;
C) faulty power switch comfort.
The integrity of the helix coil (heating element) is checked by an electropunch or multimeter. The probes of these devices are superimposed on the output contacts of the spiral from the comfort plate. If the multimeter "squeaks" (buzzer), and the arrow has deviated at the electropie, then the spiral is intact. When the spiral burns out, the comforter should be replaced with a new one.
The disconnected wire must be connected back and securely tightened. If there is a wire break, then you should ring electrical circuit electric stoves using electric screw or multimeter.